Peru

The Land of the Incas

On August 9th, we crossed the border at Zarumilla and officially entered Peru, marking the beginning of a whole new chapter of our South American adventure. The border crossing turned out to be one of the most exhausting and time-consuming we have experienced so far. What should have been a straightforward process became an ordeal, as the timing coincided with a long weekend in Ecuador. Hundreds of Ecuadorians had the same idea—to escape to the Peruvian coast for a few days of relaxation—resulting in a massive influx of travelers. The lines at both immigration and customs moved painfully slowly, and the heat and chaos didn’t make things any easier. In total, it took us nearly seven hours to get all the formalities done, from passport control and vehicle paperwork to insurance checks and customs inspections. By the time we finally drove through the last gate, we felt both relieved and completely drained.

That evening, after a long and tiring day, we reached our first stop in Peru: the Swiss Wassi campground, located right by the beach. We stayed there for four peaceful nights, and it was the perfect place to recover from the stressful border crossing. The beach was beautiful and quiet, and we spent our days walking along the shore, watching colorful sunsets, and letting the ocean breeze wash away our fatigue. The relaxed atmosphere and warm hospitality made us feel welcome right away, and it was a wonderful first impression of Peru.

Feeling refreshed, we set out to explore some of the country’s rich cultural heritage. Over the following days, we visited several fascinating archaeological sites, including the impressive Royal Tombs of Sipán, which offer a glimpse into the ancient Moche civilization, and the massive adobe temple complex of Huaca del Sol near Trujillo. Standing before these centuries-old structures, we were awed by the ingenuity and artistry of Peru’s ancient cultures and could feel the deep layers of history embedded in the landscape.

After exploring the coastal regions, we left the ocean behind and drove up into the majestic mountains of the Cordillera Blanca, one of the most breathtaking mountain ranges in the Andes. We visited the lively city of Huaraz and the charming town of Caraz, using them as bases to venture deeper into the surrounding peaks and valleys. One of the highlights of this leg of our journey was our visit to Laguna Parón, a dazzling turquoise lake framed by towering snowcapped peaks. The high altitude made the hike a bit challenging, but the scenery was so spectacular that every step felt worthwhile.

Eventually, we descended from the mountains back to the coast and continued southward along the Pan-American Highway. After many hours of driving, we arrived in Lima, Peru’s vibrant capital city. Wanting to fully enjoy the experience without worrying about parking or city traffic, we left our vehicle in a secure lot and stayed at a comfortable hotel for two nights. We explored the city by taxi, visiting historic plazas, colonial architecture, and bustling neighborhoods filled with street art, lively markets, and excellent restaurants.

Leaving the capital behind, we continued our journey down the coast toward the legendary Nasca region. There, we took a small plane for a thrilling aerial view of the world-famous Nasca Lines. Seeing the mysterious giant geoglyphs from above was an unforgettable experience—an incredible display of ancient artistry that remains one of the world’s great archaeological enigmas.

Over the next three days, we followed Ruta 30 as it wound its way east through the Andes toward Cusco. Before reaching the city, we made memorable stops at the Salt Mines of Maras, a sprawling network of terraced salt pools shimmering under the sun, and the charming town of Pisac, known for its colorful market and impressive Inca ruins overlooking the valley.

We then arrived in Cusco, the historic capital of the Inca Empire, where we spent an entire week immersing ourselves in its rich culture. We wandered through its cobblestone streets, admired the blend of Inca and Spanish colonial architecture, and soaked in the lively atmosphere of its plazas. The highlight of our time there was a 2-day trek on the legendary Inca Trail, culminating in our arrival at the awe-inspiring ruins of Machu Picchu. Standing among the ancient stone terraces was a magical and deeply moving experience that we will never forget.

After Cusco, we continued south toward Lake Titicaca, making a stop at the village of Layo to drive and hike to Pallay Punchu, a mountain known for its striking multicolored stripes. The hike was challenging but rewarded us with incredible panoramic views. When we finally reached Lake Titicaca, we joined a local guide for a tour of the Uros floating islands. We had the rare chance to visit his family and learn about their traditional way of life on the reed islands—a unique and unforgettable cultural experience.

Our last major stop in this part of Peru was Arequipa, known as the “White City” for its elegant colonial buildings made from pale volcanic stone. Nestled between towering volcanoes, Arequipa charmed us instantly. We stayed for four days, strolling its sunlit streets, relaxing in leafy plazas, and indulging in its renowned cuisine at the many excellent restaurants that line its historic center.

By mid-September, it was time to move on—or so we thought. On the morning of September 18th, as we prepared to leave Peru, disaster struck. When we started the engine, an amber warning light flashed on the dashboard. Within seconds, the motorhome went into limp mode, making it impossible to continue. A wave of frustration and helplessness hit us. We quickly contacted our service partner in Germany, who, thanks to our cellular diagnostic dongle, was able to remotely read the fault codes straight from our engine. The technology was a blessing, but it didn’t change the immediate reality: we were stranded.

We searched for a reliable workshop in Tacna, the border city, but none seemed capable of dealing with the complexity of our Iveco motorhome. After two stressful days of searching and weighing our options, we made a difficult decision. On September 20th, we left Peru behind and crossed into Chile, hoping to find a professional workshop in the city of Arica that could finally help us get back on the road.