Guatemala
In Nahuatl “Place of many trees”
On March 18th, we crossed into Guatemala at the Talisman border, which turned out to be one of the most chaotic and hectic border crossings we’ve experienced in all our travels. The atmosphere was buzzing with activity—vendors weaving between vehicles, people shouting instructions. Despite the initial stress, we managed to complete the necessary procedures with some unnecessary border helpers and were again on our way.
Only a few kilometers past the border, the scenery began to transform dramatically. We found ourselves winding through a stunning landscape of rolling hills cloaked in lush, vibrant greenery. The vegetation was thick and abundant, a vivid contrast to some of the arid regions we had passed through earlier in our journey. The air was fresh and filled with the scent of moist earth and tropical flora.
Our first major stop in Guatemala was a picturesque coffee farm in the highlands. There, we had the opportunity to learn about the entire coffee-making process, from the cultivation of beans on steep mountainsides to the careful roasting and grinding that brings out their rich flavors. We explored different brewing techniques and savored several freshly prepared cups—each one a unique expression of the land’s terroir and the farmer’s craft.
That night, we stayed at the serene Refugio del Quetzal, located at an elevation of 1,800 meters above sea level. The cooler mountain air provided a refreshing change, and the peaceful surroundings made for a perfect rest. In the early morning, we set off on a short hike through the cloud forest. To our amazement and delight, we spotted several resplendent Quetzals—the national bird of Guatemala—flitting through the trees with their long, iridescent tail feathers catching the light. It was a magical moment.
The following day, we continued our journey along narrow, winding mountain roads, aiming for the fabled shores of Lake Atitlán. However, our plans were thwarted by a sudden road blockage—a common occurrence in the region. For four long hours, we waited patiently, surrounded by fellow travelers and locals caught in the same delay. The sun had already dipped below the horizon by the time we finally reached the parking area of a hotel near the lake. Exhausted but relieved, we settled in for the night.
Our next destination was the town of Chichicastenango, famous across the region for its vibrant and bustling market. We wandered through stalls overflowing with textiles, handicrafts, produce, and traditional foods, immersing ourselves in the lively colors and rhythmic sounds of local life. The town's cemetery, just as colorful as its market, captivated us with its vividly painted tombs—a celebration of life and ancestry in hues of turquoise, pink, and yellow.
Eventually, we made it to Lake Atitlán, where we embarked on a scenic boat tour across the lake's deep blue waters. Ringed by volcanoes and picturesque villages, the lake is often regarded as one of the most beautiful in the world. We visited Panajachel, a lively town with an artistic spirit, and San Juan La Laguna, known for its indigenous art cooperatives and peaceful atmosphere.
We then made our way to the historic city of Antigua, where we stayed for several days. During the weekend, we witnessed an awe-inspiring Holy Week procession—a powerful expression of faith and tradition, with incense-filled air, intricate alfombras (sawdust carpets), and solemn parades winding through cobblestone streets. The entire city seemed to participate, creating a moving and unforgettable cultural experience.
From Antigua, we continued on to Río Dulce, a region defined by its tropical rivers and lush jungle. There, we visited the Castillo de San Felipe de Lara, a beautifully preserved Spanish colonial fort that once protected the area from pirates. The site, located at the mouth of Lake Izabal, offered fascinating insights into the region’s history and spectacular views over the water.
Before heading to Tikal, we took a detour to the serene Lago Petén Itzá, a tranquil lake surrounded by small towns and wildlife-rich shores. We spent a peaceful evening there, enjoying the stillness and reflecting on the journey so far.
The next morning, we explored the awe-inspiring ruins of Tikal, one of the most significant and expansive archaeological sites of the ancient Mayan civilization. Towering pyramids rose above the jungle canopy, and the sounds of howler monkeys echoed through the dense forest. Walking among the ruins, we could feel the presence of history all around us—mystical, grand, and humbling.
Finally, on March 31st, after an incredible two weeks in Guatemala, we crossed the border at Melchor de Mencos and entered Belize, ready for the next chapter of our adventure.
