Chile – Part III
Chiloé Archipelago & Carretera Austral
On December 1st, we entered Chile for the third time, crossing the border at Paso Cardenal Antonio Samoré, surrounded by lush forests and rolling hills. After passing through Entre Lagos and Osorno, our first stop was Llanquihue, beautifully located on the shores of Lake Llanquihue with views toward the distant volcanoes. It was a peaceful place to settle back into Chilean landscapes before continuing south.
From there, we drove to Puerto Montt, where we took care of some necessary maintenance and had our motorhome’s tires rotated. Once everything was ready, we continued further south to Pargua, where we boarded the ferry to Chiloé Island. Arriving on the island felt like stepping into a different world, with its distinctive culture, wooden churches, and rural atmosphere. We made several stops along the way, including Chacao and Ancud, before reaching Dalcahue, and eventually continued on to Castro, the island’s capital, famous for its colorful palafitos.
After spending the night in Castro, we drove all the way south to Quellón, marking the symbolic end of the Pan-American Highway. From there, we turned north again and stayed for two nights in Cucao, camping by a river not far from the wild Pacific coast. During our stay, we explored Parque Nacional Chiloé, hiking through dense forests, wetlands, and coastal trails shaped by wind and rain—raw, green, and atmospheric landscapes that define the island.
Leaving Chiloé behind, we returned to Castro and took the ferry to Chaitén. The following day, in Chaitén, we officially began our journey along the legendary Carretera Austral, one of the most scenic roads in South America. Our first stop was Parque Nacional Pumalín, where we spent about four hours hiking through pristine forests, rivers, and volcanic landscapes.
We continued to Lake Yelcho for the night, enjoying the calm surroundings before pushing further south. On the way to Refugio Río Cisnes, we had a very special reunion: we met our Swiss cyclist friend Fiona again. We first met her more than a year ago in Alaska, crossed paths again in Ecuador near Cotopaxi, and now, unexpectedly, here in Patagonia. We spent a wonderful evening together, sharing stories and reliving adventures from across the Americas.
Our journey then took us through Puerto Aysén, Coyhaique, Villa Cerro Castillo, and finally to Puerto Río Tranquilo. One of the highlights of this region was a boat tour to the famous Marble Caves, a truly magical experience with turquoise waters and sculpted rock formations glowing in changing light.
Near Puerto Guadal, we left the Carretera Austral and followed the shores of General Carrera Lake, one of the largest and most impressive lakes in Patagonia, driving toward the Argentine border near Chile Chico. On December 18th, we officially crossed into Argentina at Paso Río Jeinemeni, closing another unforgettable chapter of our Chilean journey and opening the door to the next stage of our South American adventure.
